I have woken up at 5:00AM the past two mornings to go surfing! It has been great. Today, I almost got barreled for the first time. The waves were small but had good form. I was too big and not quite good enough, though!
This is being barreled, but this is not nearly what i looked like. I still had a great time. I am loving life and getting to hang out with my friends. it's good!
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